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Person holding a long door handle and rectangular lock case beside an open wooden door with exposed hardware recesses. — Vintage Mortise Lock Service, Normanhurst
Two detached brass lock cylinders and four house keys on a wooden counter. — Lock Rekeying, Normanhurst

Change or rekey · Normanhurst

Vintage Mortise Lock Service in Normanhurst

Someone painted the door years ago without removing the hardware.

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In plain words

Occasionally a case really is finished, with a cracked body, a bolt worn to a sliver or a hub broken in two, and the answer is a replacement that respects the door. Reproduction mortise cases are made in common vintage sizes and backsets, and a modern case with a pin-tumbler cylinder can fit many old pockets with little woodwork once its faceplate and hub also line up. The locksmith measures the case, backset, faceplate and trim spacing before ordering, aiming for the new case to drop in with your original knobs and escutcheons going back on. From the hallway, the door looks untouched; it just works.

Sound familiar?

The interior bedroom doors on the second floor have the original mortise latches, and none of them close any more. The doors drift open, the small brass turn buttons do nothing, and the keyholes have been empty for as long as anyone can remember.

How the visit goes

Vintage Mortise Lock Service

How the visit goes

Wooden door with a dark lever handle and empty round bore, beside a deadbolt, latch, screws and screwdriver on a case. — Normanhurst
Kneeling technician using a small tool at the handle set of a black door, with an open tool bag and yellow flowers. — Normanhurst
  1. Condition of the wood around the pocket

    The mortise pocket and the screw holes in the door edge carry the whole lock, so their state is part of the assessment. The locksmith probes the faceplate screws for grip, looks for cracks running from the pocket into the stile, and checks whether an earlier repair enlarged the pocket or packed it with something soft. Stripped holes, a split edge or a case that shifts when the knob is turned change the plan: dowelling and re-drilling, a hardwood filler, or longer screws may be needed before the rebuilt case can be trusted. Finding this now avoids surprises once the lock is back in the door.

  2. Cylinder work on a later mortise lock

    A pin-tumbler cylinder on a mortise lock is serviced the same way as a modern one. The plug is pushed out with a follower, the old bottom pins are replaced to a new combination, and keys are cut to match, so a lost key stops mattering. If the plug is worn past rekeying, a new mortise cylinder is selected with the same thread length, the same cam shape and a finish close to the trim, and threaded into the case to the correct depth so the cam swings the bolt without binding. The set screw is seated into the cylinder's groove, and the key is tested with the case in the door.

  3. Looking after the finish

    The brass or bronze knobs and escutcheons on an old door have earned their patina, left alone unless you ask otherwise. Paint cleaned from a faceplate or strike leaves the bare metal as found, not polished bright. If you would rather see them shine, check the finish first: unlacquered brass takes a gentle polish well, kept off the keyhole and spindle; polishing a lacquered piece can scratch through it and start tarnish underneath. Lacquered reproduction parts resist tarnishing rather than darken to match; an unlacquered reproduction is built to age and blend in over a season or two. A light wipe when dusting is all the upkeep the trim needs; wet cleaners find their way into the case.

Vintage Mortise Lock Service

In the van

  • Hub followers and lever packs

  • Warding files

  • Reproduction mortise case

  • Hardwood dowel and wood glue

  • Light lock oil

Handheld diagnostic unit with a screen and buttons lying on a dirty car floor mat, cabled to a port under the dash. — Normanhurst

Vintage Mortise Lock Service

What affects the quote

  1. Whether the door has to come off its hinges

    Some mortise cases can be serviced with the door hanging in place, while a tight jamb or a stubborn case sometimes means lifting the door off its hinges onto a level bench. That step is identified once the case is open and the repair needs are clear.

  2. Missing or mismatched trim

    Sourcing a knob, escutcheon or thumb-turn to match the survivors, from salvage or reproduction stock, is quoted as parts plus the search. Reusing your own trim from another door avoids that line.

  3. Replacement case

    A case that is cracked or worn through is replaced with a reproduction or modern mortise case sized to the pocket. The case itself, any trimming of the pocket and the refitting are itemised separately from a repair.

What to have ready

  • What does the knob do when you turn it: return, sag, or not come back?
  • Is the property designated as a heritage building?
  • Does the door take a skeleton-style bit key or a flat key in a round cylinder?
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Vintage Mortise Lock Service: questions

Questions
How should I look after the lock once it is serviced?

A drop of the right lock oil into the latch and bolt once a year is plenty. If the lock has a pin-tumbler cylinder, use whatever lubricant that cylinder's maker specifies, since some take a dry graphite or PTFE product and others a specified liquid one. Try the latch and deadbolt each spring and fall; if the bolt starts to scrape, the strike wants a small adjustment before anything is strained. Keep bit keys out of a pocket where they bend.

Can the work be done with the lock left in the door?

Rarely, and it is not the better route. Almost everything that fails is inside the case, and the case only opens once it is out of the pocket, which takes a few minutes and leaves no mark. Working through the keyhole with an unapproved or over-applied spray tends to wash out what little lubricant should stay and gums the levers later. Removing the case, cleaning it properly and refitting it is the repair that lasts.

Why does the deadbolt scrape or need a shove to throw?

Two causes cover most cases. Either paint has built up on the faceplate, the bolt or the strike so the bolt drags across it, or the door has dropped so the bolt is entering the strike pocket at an angle and rubbing its edge. Occasionally a bent deadbolt lever inside the case adds friction. Cleaning the paint back, adjusting the strike and checking the lever all happen as part of the service.

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