Change or rekey · Hamilton
Vintage Mortise Lock Service
Someone painted the door years ago without removing the hardware.
In plain words
Occasionally a case really is finished, with a cracked body, a bolt worn to a sliver or a hub broken in two, and the answer is a replacement that respects the door. Reproduction mortise cases are made in common vintage sizes and backsets, and a modern case with a pin-tumbler cylinder can fit many old pockets with little woodwork once its faceplate and hub also line up. The locksmith measures the case, backset, faceplate and trim spacing before ordering, aiming for the new case to drop in with your original knobs and escutcheons going back on. From the hallway, the door looks untouched; it just works.
How the visit goesThe brass knob on the front door of your century home turns, but nothing happens on the other side. The latch stays tucked in, the door swings free, and the only thing holding it shut is the deadbolt and a bit key that has worn down to a nub.
Vintage Mortise Lock Service
How the visit goes
Condition of the wood around the pocket
The mortise pocket and the screw holes in the door edge carry the whole lock, so their state is part of the assessment. The locksmith probes the faceplate screws for grip, looks for cracks running from the pocket into the stile, and checks whether an earlier repair enlarged the pocket or packed it with something soft. Stripped holes, a split edge or a case that shifts when the knob is turned change the plan: dowelling and re-drilling, a hardwood filler, or longer screws may be needed before the rebuilt case can be trusted. Finding this now avoids surprises once the lock is back in the door.
Putting the door edge right
Before the case goes back, the pocket and screw holes get whatever attention the check turned up. Stripped holes are drilled out, plugged with glued hardwood dowel and re-drilled so the faceplate screws bite. A pocket that has loosened is packed with a thin hardwood shim glued to one wall so the case sits tight. A split at the edge is glued and clamped. None of this changes the door's appearance; it simply gives the rebuilt lock something solid to sit in, which matters because a case that shifts in its pocket will bind the spindle and undo the bench work in a few months.
Parts, records and the house file
Anything that came out of the lock, a broken spring, a worn lever, the old cylinder, is offered to you rather than thrown away; some owners keep the originals with the house's papers. The locksmith leaves a short account of what was done: the case type and size, what was replaced, whether keys were made or a cylinder rekeyed, and how the strike was adjusted. For a designated heritage property this record shows the original hardware was retained. For everyone else it is simply the sheet you hand to the next locksmith, or the next owner, so nobody has to rediscover what is inside the door.
Vintage Mortise Lock Service
In the van
Hub followers and lever packs
Warding files
Reproduction mortise case
Hardwood dowel and wood glue
Light lock oil
Vintage Mortise Lock Service
What affects the quote
Whether the door has to come off its hinges
Some mortise cases can be serviced with the door hanging in place, while a tight jamb or a stubborn case sometimes means lifting the door off its hinges onto a level bench. That step is identified once the case is open and the repair needs are clear.
Keying doors alike
Bringing several interior locks onto one bit key, or several cylinders onto one flat key, is extra bench work per lock and is simplest to arrange while all the cases are out on the same visit.
Paint and seized parts
Hardware buried under decades of paint takes time to free and clean without damage. A faceplate, strike and thumb-turn that have to be stripped back add to the visit and are noted in the quote.
What to have ready
- Do you own the home or rent it, and who should receive the keys?
- Does the door take a skeleton-style bit key or a flat key in a round cylinder?
- How many doors need attention, and are any of them interior doors?
Vintage Mortise Lock Service: questions
QuestionsHow should I look after the lock once it is serviced?
A drop of the right lock oil into the latch and bolt once a year is plenty. If the lock has a pin-tumbler cylinder, use whatever lubricant that cylinder's maker specifies, since some take a dry graphite or PTFE product and others a specified liquid one. Try the latch and deadbolt each spring and fall; if the bolt starts to scrape, the strike wants a small adjustment before anything is strained. Keep bit keys out of a pocket where they bend.
Can the work be done with the lock left in the door?
Rarely, and it is not the better route. Almost everything that fails is inside the case, and the case only opens once it is out of the pocket, which takes a few minutes and leaves no mark. Working through the keyhole with an unapproved or over-applied spray tends to wash out what little lubricant should stay and gums the levers later. Removing the case, cleaning it properly and refitting it is the repair that lasts.
Why does the deadbolt scrape or need a shove to throw?
Two causes cover most cases. Either paint has built up on the faceplate, the bolt or the strike so the bolt drags across it, or the door has dropped so the bolt is entering the strike pocket at an angle and rubbing its edge. Occasionally a bent deadbolt lever inside the case adds friction. Cleaning the paint back, adjusting the strike and checking the lever all happen as part of the service.
Related services
- Deadbolt InstallationSomeone tried the door last winter.
- Lock Replacement & UpgradeThe house is fifteen years old and every exterior door still wears the light hardware the builder fitted: a short bolt, a thin strike held by two small screws, and a knob lock that never suited a street entrance.
- Smart Lock InstallationYou have just taken possession of the house and the previous owners handed over a keypad deadbolt with a code nobody wrote down and an app account you cannot get into.